Did I like my Cha Ca La Vong?

I can be a gullible traveler. Travel guidebooks, magazines, and blogs listed it. Even our hotel’s map guide pointed to it. Cha Ca La Vong –the famed dish of the restaurant with the same name.

So on the first night in Hanoi, I was one of the pilgrims who headed to Cha Ca La Vong. Burrowed in one of the streets of Old Quarter, with no clearly visible signage, we relied on a trusty map and helpful locals to get us there. For a few seconds, we hesitated because we were pointed to a spot which was bare except for a parked motorcycle and some articles suggesting it was a living space, not a legendary restaurant.

Somehow, we found our instincts to go up a flight of narrow and wobbly wooden stairs. And there we found the mecca of Cha Ca La Vong – an invigorated eatery sans the fancy interiors and sophisticated cutlery but crammed with eager diners. Our hotel said they made prior reservations for the restaurant to accommodate our big group of pilgrims. But I doubt if it was necessary or even heeded. You just have to wait to get a table.

We were charmed though to arrive just in time a long table was cleared. Shortly after settling in, they distributed white ceramic bowls and reusable plastic chopsticks. And because they serve one dish only, the Cha Ca La Vong, there was no need to choose. They placed a cooking burner on our table, set a pan with fish and sauces on top, and laid out bowls of cold noodles, vegetables, herbs, spices, and peanuts around. For the price of around $10 per person, they filled the pan and bowls twice.

Eating cha ca la vong is close to a ritual – a frenzied ritual . It entails mixing the vegetables with the fish and sauces in the pan, scooping a portion of the mixture and pouring it on your bowl of cold noodles, adding a bit of herbs and sauces, and topping it off with peanuts. You can buy pieces of the crusty bread hanging on the wall to pair with the interesting taste of the fish and sauces. To savor the scrumptious oil in the pan, swirl, or better yet, dip the bread in it.

So did I like my cha ca la vong? Perhaps it was the kick of seeking for the iconic dish, the pleasure of eating with good company, the energy of the place, the novelty of the ritual, and of course the epic century-old recipe. It was not merely a meal, it became an experience. Despite its shortcomings, yes, I did like my cha ca la vong.

Postscript:

If you do not eat fish or vegetables, this is not for you.

If you are famished, try this some other time.

If you have an obsessive need for sterility and cleanliness, skip this.

If you wish to have a fancy or tranquil meal, go somewhere else.

                

Coron Island: Paradise Found

I was steered through a patch of gray clouds, a blow of cold wind, a portion of shifting waters, and a pour of steady rain. And with no hint of its advent, the overcast veil suddenly lifted and I found myself in the precipice to paradise. The skies became a clear blanket of blue. The waters turned pristinely aquamarine. And the colossal limestone rocks loomed from the waters. I was beholden to be in awe of the natural wonder revealed before me – Coron Island, the paradise I found one misty day in September.

The boat continued to traverse further and around, uncovering more magnificent formations and details of the limestone rocks and deeper turquoise waters in the inner recesses. The boat halted in one of the alcoves, the access to Kayangan Lake, famed to be the cleanest lake in Asia. But, to get there, one has to climb and then descend the innumerable steps of slippery rocks amidst a natural flora. Ensuring the preservation of ecology, there are no paved pathways, only a crude wooden railing directs the trail to the isolated lake. Midway through the climb and descent, like a reward so sweet, a breathtaking view is revealed. A picture perfect point.

Upon teetering on the last steps, I looked up to find a crystal clear expanse of water gorgeously nestled amid lush rock formations. I run out of adjectives early on in this trip and I just dipped into the untainted waters. There may be a school of swordfish teeming the edge of the waters or a water lizard whizzing through. A narrow entry point in one of the rock formations leads to a cave where a hole at the top of the rock formation reveals the sky and allows a ray of light. The lake is a visual feast, a calm refuge, and an indulgence for a relaxing swim.

Journeying on around the island, I was led to the Twin Lagoons where, I learned, courage is put to a test. Since the two lagoons are separated by two rock formations, courage is summoned when one has to take a short swim underwater, cautioning not to be injured by the sharp rocks, in order to reach the other lagoon. I have to say that regret will be the recompense for the one who will be merely gratified in swimming around the first lagoon. As I emerged from underwater, I found myself in Shangri-la! The vision was beyond amazing, I breathed, “Am I still on earth?” A majestic succession of rock formations encircles the lagoon, setting it in blissful seclusion. I felt I found a different world. And then reality struck – I failed to bring a waterproof camera! While I could not document the moment, I immersed myself fully in the extraordinary beauty and bliss of paradise on Earth.

The island holds more wonderful vistas, both above water and underwater. The Siete Pecados, an area located near seven rock formations, is a treasure trove for marine life. With the vibrant colors and massive diversity of the underwater world at such shallow depths here, it remains my best snorkeling experience so far. While snorkeling at Skeleton Wreck, the site of the World War II ship wrecks, was a distinctive experience. There are more sites for other shipwrecks, which can be appreciated only through diving due to its depths. Smith’s Point, an isolated area of fine sand and clear water, was an excellent and less crowded stop for lunch and frolic in the sea. And at the end of the day, an unexpected rainbow accented the seascape, a perfect conclusion in the place of bliss.

This island deserves more than my breathless praise. It is worthy to be visited again and again. And as fate would have it, my flight home was cancelled. I had no wails or whines. For I was stranded in paradise.

SIDE NOTES

Getting to the island:

Coron Island is part of the municipality of Coron, Palawan, Philippines. The entry point is a nearby municipality, Busuanga Island. You have to fly to Busuanga, take a van to the town, and hire a motorized boat in order to get to and around Coron Island.

Travel time:

From the cities of Manila and Cebu, the travel time is around one hour via airplane.

Places to stay:

Regulations prohibit any form of dwelling in Coron Island. You will have to settle in either Busuanga or Coron. Both are still provincial and there are no grand or swanky hotels in the area. However, it is littered with decent small hotels and pension houses. Mount Tapyas Hotel provides a wonderful view of the Coron islands.

Best time to visit:

The summer months of April and May will provide a glorious setting in this island. The sights are still awesome during the rainy season. However, fog can easily descend in the airport, so there is a chance for flight delays or cancellations.

Other places to visit:

1. Mt. Tapyas is located in the town of Coron. Accessible through 720 concrete steps, it provides a wide and scenic view of the islands. It is the perfect location to catch the setting of the sun.

2. Maquinit Hot Springs is likewise located in the town of Coron. After the climb to Mt. Tapyas, the heat of the pools are soothing and palliative.

For those traveling with kids:

1. The slippery steps leading to Kayangan Lake is challenging even for adults. It is best for those bringing along babies or toddlers to strap them to a baby body sling. This will be for the safety of both the child and the adult who might need the hands free to hold the railings. We brought children ranging from 8-12 years old and they managed the climb and descent on their own.

2. In Twin Lagoons, the boat will provide life vests for passengers  to use in traversing the two lagoons. The swim from one side of the lagoon to the other and around it will not be a short one. The boatmen can pull the kids (and tired adults) in and around the lagoons. A tip to the boatmen will be welcome.

3. In Siete Pecados, the areas for snorkeling have been lined with ropes where the kids and adults can hold on to, without fear of being drifted away from the boat.

4. For the climb to Mt. Tapyas, children aged 8 and above, especially those physically active, will not find it difficult. During our trip, the kids reached the top first.

5. In Maquinit Hot Springs, let the kids take a dip with their feet first in order to test if they can withstand the heat of the pools.

Suggested itinerary:

Day 1 -

Mt. Tapyas in time for sunset

Maquinit Hot Springs for a soothing bath after the trek

Day 2 -

Kayangan Lake early in the morning to avoid the crowds

Twin Lagoons

Smith’s Point for lunch and swimming

Skeleton Wreck

Siete Pecados

Day 3 -

Diving around other shipwreck sites

Shopping for souvenirs and cashew nut-based goodies

*Photos by Cesar Gariando

Baguio City Journal

 

Baguio City got its name from the Ibaloi word, “bagiw,” which means moss. The city is known as the gateway to the Cordillera region because it serves as the entry point to the other provinces of the Cordillera such as Benguet, Mountain Province/Sagada, and Banaue. In search of a cooler climate, the Americans reached Baguio City in the 1900’s and established it as the Summer Capital of the Philippines. Set at an altitude of around 1,610 meters, it eventually became a favored highland retreat during the summer and Christmas seasons.

The lush highlands of Baguio City

How to get to Baguio City:

From Manila, a bus ride via Victory Liner is a comfortable way to head to Baguio City. This bus liner has the regular air-conditioned buses and the deluxe buses. The deluxe buses are equipped with a clean restroom, reclining seats, and an audiovisual and wifi system. Tickets can be easily bought online and promptly delivered to your address. The bus fee includes snacks, water, and free use of a tablet computer during the trip. The buses from Cubao and Pasay Terminal ply the Baguio route.  However, if you come from out of town and getting in Manila via the airport, then the Pasay Terminal is recommended for its proximity to the airport.

Best time to visit:

The city has a cool climate all year round, so any time of the year is a good time to visit Baguio City. The peak seasons are during the summer months of April and May, the holiday season from late November until early January, and the Baguio Flower Festival (Panagbenga) month of February. Locals say that the city is coldest on February, in time for the festival. If you wish to avoid the crowds, then visit during the lean season.

The vibrant flora of Baguio City

Travel time:

If you travel at night, it will only take around 5 hours to get to Baguio City. Traveling at night is suggested in order to maximize your visit to Baguio City. Waking hours are not wasted on a long ride. You will then have the entire day to explore the city.

Places to stay:

There are different accommodations available in Baguio City, depending on your needs and budget. For those taking the night bus, it is recommended that you make arrangements of your early arrival with your hotel. If your room is not yet available as the usual check-in time is at 2:00 p.m., you may request for a wash up room where you can rest and shower before heading out to the city. While most recommend staying in hotels along or near Session Road, it is my personal recommendation to stay away from it. Session Road is crowded, busy, and noisy. The accommodations along Leonard Wood Road, like Azalea Residences, and in Camp John Hay, like Forest Lodge, are recommended. It is far from the crowds, gives a more authentic Baguio ambience with pine trees, less smog, a cooler climate, and yet it remains accessible to the places of interest. Don’t forget to reserve your accommodations in advance especially during the peak season.

Azalea Residences

Getting around the city:

Jeepneys and taxis are available to take you around the city. However, if you are not familiar with the city and/or you wish to save time, taxis are the better alternative. While Baguio City is small and the places of interest can be reached within minutes, the city is beginning to be congested and the traffic flow can be slow at times in certain parts of the city. If you did not bring your own car, it is my personal recommendation to hire a car or van. It can be difficult to get a taxi when you are in crowded areas or in certain areas like Camp John Hay and the Philippine Military Academy. Hiring a vehicle is more comfortable, time-saving, and cost-efficient.  During the peak season, make early reservations for a car or van. An alternative is to hire a taxi on a per-day basis. It will cost around P2,200-P2, 500, already including the gasoline and covers trips from sunrise until midnight, if you wish.

Things to do:

1. Visit the places of interest and activities. The following places, sorted according to location, can be visited in two full days:

a. Camp John Hay –

• Visit the Cemetery of Negativity, Amphitheater, History Trail, Bell House, Butterfly Sanctuary, Igorot Garden
• Do horseback riding in a pine tree-lush hilly trail. The fee includes a ride around the bridle path where you will be taught how to maneuver a horse and you will allowed to go around the path without the guide holding the horse.
• Go to the Treetop Adventure for activities set amidst scenic views: the Tree Drop, the Superman Ride and the Silver Surfer for the ultimate thrill seekers; Canopy Ride and Trekking for the less courageous ones;

b. Mines View Park, Good Shepherd Convent, The Mansion, Wright Park and Riding Circle, Botanical Garden, Teachers’ Camp

c. The Baguio Cathedral, Session Road, Burnham Park and Burnham Lake

d. Ta-awan Village Wood Carvers’ Village, Bencab Museum, and the Lourdes Grotto

• At the Tam-awan Village, have a Baguio or Tam-awan artist do your sketch in 10-15 minutes for P100.00; view the different Ifugao houses and the art gallery
• At the Lourdes Grotto, climb the 252, light a candle, and say a prayer at the altar.

e. Strawberry Farm – Experience picking strawberries from the fields for P500 per kilo of strawberries that you pick. The farm is located in La Trinidad, Benguet, which is around 30 minutes from Baguio City.

f. The Philippine Military Academy – try to catch their drill exhibitions or try to catch a cadet for a photo opportunity; explore its expansive grounds; view and play around the vintage weapons, tanks, and planes.

g. Baguio Country Club – Every Christmas season, visit their Christmas Village for a spectacle of lights and a shower of light “snow.”

Pine tree-lush hills in Camp John Hay

Canopy ride at the Treetop Adventure

Lourdes Grotto

Strawberry picking

Philippine Military Academy Grounds

Cadets of the Philippine Military Academy

2. Chase the light. For those who take pleasure in chasing and admiring the light, you can catch a splendid sunrise at Mines View Park and at the Baguio Cathedral. On a clear day, it is said that the Tam-awan Village offers a beautiful view of the China Sea at sunset.

Baguio City sunrise

3. Eat, eat, and eat. Baguio city is a melting pot of different tastes and flavors. You will wish you had more time because one can actually visit Baguio City just to have a culinary tour. For a short visit, do taste:

• Café by the Ruins, along Chuntug Street, is a quaint and artistic, place to have a gustatory fix. It is a good place to have breakfast as well when the morning light slowly filters throughout the place.
• Chocolate de Batirol in Camp John Hay is a rustic place for a hot chocolate prepared using the real cacao and the traditional batirol (small pot with stirring rod)
• Little John’s in Camp John Hay is an interesting place to eat with kids. They provide crayons and brown paper so kids (and adults, too) can draw while waiting for the food to be served. What makes it extraordinary is that you can submit your drawings and get a chance to have it framed on the wall.
• Forest House Café is located in Loakan Road. Being an award-winning restaurant, it is said that you cannot leave Baguio city without trying the savory meals and cozy ambience at Forest House Café.
• O Mai Khan, at Otek Street corner Jose Rizal Park, serves sumptuous Mongolian buffet
  

  Cafe by the Ruins

  

  Chocolate de Batirol

  

  Forest House Cafe

4. Shop! Baguio City completes your visit with places to shop:

• Good Shepherd Convent for heavenly goodies
• Mile-Hi Center at Camp John Hay for export overruns
• Ayala Technohub at Camp John Hay for ROX and other branded items
• Shops at the Philippine Military Academy, Mines View Park, Tam-awan Village for souvenirs
• Shops at the Strawberry Farm for strawberry based goodies and wines
• Baguio City is said to be the haven for pre-loved items found in Session Road shops and Baguio Market

5. View the city in a different light. http://reveriesofforevers.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/baguio-in-a-different-light/.

Baguio in a different light

Baguio City, the gateway to the Cordillera, is the long-famed highland destination in Northern Philippines. While the city has to contend with the travails of development, it has retained its repute and charm as a cool clime getaway. It remains to be a place where one can escape to, get lost in, and make oneself whole again, before the new year heralds itself. It is a refuge not only for its low temperatures and lush settings but also for its comfort food, beautiful views, and even adrenaline-rush activities.

Being a perenially famous travel destination, it has been seen and photographed countless times. Along with the customary shots of Baguio in travelogues, some scenes viewed and taken in a different light enthused me to veer away from the common and interject a distinctive character to my Baguio memories. And so, retreating to this milieu right after the challenges of the working year and the frenzy of the Christmas holidays became a perfect therapy for rest, recreation, and restoration. This is my Baguio perspective.*

The Baguio Cathedral is beautiful with the full moon still in view before daybreak.

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The sanctuary of the Baguio Cathedral is most solemn and serene at dawn.

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Awaiting daybreak at the highland retreat is a moment of retrospection and anticipation.

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The Mines View Park is a perfect setting for a splendid show of anticrepuscular rays of morning light.

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The summer mansion of the Philippine President at daybreak is stately and yet mysterious.

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The “Pool of Pines” in the early morn offers a welcome tranquility.

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The pool, pines, and midday light herald the facade of the Imperial Mansion.

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A bamboo bridge in Tam-Awan Village leads to a landscape so lush and colorful.

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The basket-full of berries is a luscious sight.

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The opulently pretty blooms seem to make everything better.

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The canopy ride 100 feet above ground discloses a breathtaking view of the mountains beyond framed by a wistful foliage of pines.

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From 100 feet above ground, the pine needles uniquely appear as verdant blooms.

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Burnham Park reveals a dreamy twinkle at night.

 

*This Baguio perspective is enhanced by Instagram.

*For tips and tidbits on Baguio City, click http://reveriesofforevers.wordpress.com/2013/01/24/baguio-city-journal/

Life List: Smithsonian’s Places to Go

Life List: Smithsonian’s Places to Go

One of the best references for the top places to visit in one’s lifetime

In My East of the Sun and West of the Moon

In my first morning at the Last Frontier, I ventured early to the top of my temporary abode  with a sense of purpose – to catch the rising sun. And just as soon as I emerged from the staircase leading to the vantage point, a timely salutation came into sight. The first ray of light peeked out of the clouds in the eastern horizon.

Chasing light entails a silent anticipation in solitude, whether you are amongst friends or crowds. The experience is almost magical, the people in your midst quietly fade into nowhere, and it becomes a solitary moment with the rising sun and its Omnipotent Creator. While awaiting the full splendor of the sunrise,  I slowly swept my gaze over the wide and circular breadth of the horizon. Uninterrupted and diverse views of the skies, mountains, and seas came into picturesque sight…

In one fleeting fragment of the southern panorama, a mystical shift of the clouds pervaded the skies over the sea.

While in a scene far beyond north, dense clouds softly converged with the mountain peaks in the slowly emerging light of day.

And the sun’s rising gradually ensued, creating calm hues in the eastern sky.

However, in another sweep of the early morning vista, there was an unexpected juxtaposition of emotions in the horizon. In contrast to the optimistic illumination set in motion by the east, a melancholic moon still lingered in the bluish morn of the west.

It was an overwhelming rare vision of beautiful contrasts – a moon holding on to yesterday and a sun ushering  a new today. But as the moon finally waned into the distant horizon, there remained the emerging glory of the morning sun.

In my east of the sun and west of the moon, there was nothing but whispered realism – yesterday is of no moment. There is only today.

And now, the adventures in the Last Frontier and beyond await…

Hale Manna – A Home to Return To

Hale Manna

The House of Good Energy. So I learned that this was the translation for Hale Manna, which is Hawaiian in origin. And indeed, upon entering the gateway of Hale Manna, an air of positivity abounds, an atmosphere of calmness pervades, and a mood of cheer permeates.

Hale Manna is a beach resort and a coastal garden located in Moalboal, Cebu. True to its name, everything in Hale Manna radiates with good and happy energy. There is no resistance to nature’s gifts, only conformity to its flows, patterns, and shapes.

We traveled to Hale Manna, not merely finding a house, we found a home. We did not find mere sand and sea, we found an underwater paradise. We did not find a mere beach resort, we found bliss.

Hale Manna is tremendously blessed and these are its blessings…

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The clear aquamarine waters and gentle waves consistently beckon. Hale Manna welcomes the flow of the waters by keeping its shore open and unrestricted by any seawall.

May it be a wade, a dip, or a frolic, the energy of its seas rejuvenates the weary and frazzled spirit of a city dweller.

The waters of Hale Manna in Moalboal, Cebu

The seas of Hale Manna in Moalboal, Cebu

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The underwater paradise is a just a kayak ride-away.

Moalboal has a very rich and diverse marine life, making it a haven for divers. Hale Manna embraces the richness of its marine world and makes it easily accessible even to non-divers, to the sheer delight of its guests.

While still maintaining the ideal of conforming to nature, Hale Manna anchored an eco-friendly floating raft a few meters away from Moalboal’s underwater cliff. Guests can go to the raft by a kayak, provided with life vests and expertly steered by its lifeguards. The experience is made safe even for kids, with the presence of at least two life guards, individual life vest for each guest, and a line to hold on to while snorkeling.

This is one of the many boons of Hale Manna. The raft is a jump-off point to the wonderful world under water, where the corals and fishes come to life in varying colors, sizes, and shapes. An enchantment for young and old alike.

The jump-off point to the underwater paradise in Hale Manna, Moalboal, Cebu

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Hale Manna’s beauty comes from its qualities of being rustic, idyllic, and real.

The main house of Hale Manna, its common areas, and its rooms perfectly integrate the energies of air and light into its design. It is airy, spacious, and comfortable. And the lovely red accent on doors, lamps, and benches is a catalyst for a vibrant energy in the house and in the grounds.

The common areas in the ground floor and second floor are open and far from being restrictive.  It ingeniously accommodates the bustles of a group such as board games or girl talks while providing cozy nooks for one who would rather opt to seek a space of solitude for reading or relaxation.

The gardens and grounds of Hale Manna are naturally beautiful, sprawling, and opening towards the vast aquamarine waters of Moalboal. There are no manicured gardens or smooth pathways here. Oriental plants and flowers flourish by being untamed.  And the pathways are rough, unpolished, and least resistant to the contours of the land.

But there are wide open spaces facing the sea and the horizon, which is perfect, perhaps even too perfect, for an early morning vinyasa or yin yoga by sundown.

Benches, hammocks, and cottages that face the breeze and the sea are strategically strewn in the resort, making it ideal and adaptable for a nightcap, group bonding, or even self-introspection.

Hale Manna

A view of the sea in Hale Manna, Moalboal, Cebu

Hale Manna garden

One of the many blooms in the gardens of Hale Manna

The grounds of Hale Manna

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Hale Manna is an ideal site for the chasers of the spectacle of light. The bliss which Hale Manna brings to every traveler culminates in the beautiful sunset, painting a picturesque vista of the sea and mountains beyond.

Sundown at Hale Manna, Moalboal, Cebu

Sunset at Hale Manna, Moalboal, Cebu

A return to Hale Manna is definitely foreseeable. The ebb and flow of the seas, the splendor of the underwater, and the setting of the sun yesterday will never be alike today nor tomorrow. But Hale Manna holds a promise that the positivity of yesterday shall hold true today, and even until tomorrow. That will always bring us back to the Home of Good Energy.

Postscript: The time in Hale Manna was made more wonderful by the kindness and generosity of its owners, Becky Smith and Liana Smith-Bautista and the helpfulness and congeniality of their staff. 

An Ode to an Enigma, the Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia

It is the inveterate cliché that beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. And when this is invoked, all arguments may cease, although not necessarily resolved. The Basilica of the Sagrada Familia may very well be the subject of a debate, as it is not the conventional young, flawless, and well-proportioned beauty.  In fact, if one has a puritanical view of beauty, this must be shed the moment one steps out of Sagrada Familia metro station and gazes high at the towering Basilica – a Gothic edifice with a distinctive peculiarity and ambiguity in size and form. It will not probably strike some as beautiful at first glance. But its beauty actually lies in its eccentricity and in its seeming defiance to be regular, ordinary, or even perfect.

Hailed as one of the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites, the Basilica’s enigmatic presence makes it an eminent landmark in Barcelona, Spain. It is known as Antoni Gaudi’s greatest work of art. The construction of the Sagrada Familia started in 1882. While Gaudi was only commissioned to be its architect in 1883, it was his architectural and artistic vision of the church which made it become what it is today and what it shall be when it will finally be completed – a majestic church with 18 towers.

But even from inception, Gaudi’s grand plans for the church were mired with challenges – from the funding to the execution of its monumental design, the Spanish Civil War, destruction of Gaudi’s studio, and unfortunately, Gaudi’s untimely demise in 1926. When Gaudi faced the difficulties in its construction during his lifetime, he was known to say, “In the Sagrada Familia, everything is providential.” And true to Gaudi’s faith and confidence in divine providence, Gaudi’s vision is relentlessly perpetuated and realized, albeit unhurriedly, as its construction continues until the present day.

Columns, vaults, and stained glass windows of the Sagrada Familia

Although one is no artist or architect, the uncharacteristic beauty and telling mystery of the Basilica’s structure and design will certainly be overwhelming. The poignant play of light, color, geometry and symbolism, all characteristic of Gaudi, is prevalent throughout the Basilica – from the pinnacle of the bell towers, the ornate facades, the stained glass windows, the baroque walls, the detailed portal, and the nature-inspired vaults and columns. However, in stark contrast, the altar is appropriately austere, a silent declaration that praise and worship should be stripped of all ostentation.

Most of Gaudi’s life was devoted to the creation and realization of the Sagrada Familia. But Gaudi’s death was akin to most ironies in life. The man who created what has become one of the most eminent edifices in history died due to anonymity. Nobody could identify him when he was hit by a tram. Because of this, he was not given adequate medical attention. But in a worthy, although belated, tribute, the crypt in the Sagrada Familia now serves as his resting place.

Nativity Facade of the Sagrada Familia

Nearly every inch of the Basilica is riveting, prompting a mere mortal to question how it is possible to conceive such an elaborate idea and to render it into fruition. To this, there is no answer more absolute than what Gaudi often used to say, “This work lies in the hands of God and the will of the people.”

Altar of the Sagrada Familia

The magnificence of the Sagrada Familia can easily cause one to lose sight of its essence. The fact that there is an hour-long queue and a fee before admission gives it an initial aura of being a mere tourist attraction. But more than anything else, it is a place of worship. Pope Benedict XVI dedicated the church for permanent worship in November 2010. So while one will be expectedly enthralled, endlessly admiring and taking photographs at every nook and cranny of the Basilica, one should spend solemn moments in prayer too.

The Sagrada Familia is a grand testament of a people’s faith and hope so powerful, it has endured struggles for more than a hundred years. Knowing the epic story behind the Sagrada Familia will give a different and profound dimension to one’s visit. It instills a new hope, or perhaps rekindles a lost one.

The church of the Sagrada Familia has triumphed over struggles but continues to face new ones until this day. Reminiscent of a real-life saga, the tale of the Sagrada Familia has no real ending. Its tale is as enduring as the faith and hope of its people.

Epilogue:

Food. A detour towards a filled stomach is always heaven-sent. Depending on one’s gastronomic sense, there are a number of restaurants to choose from just within the vicinity of the Sagrada Familia. Els Porxos is one of them – where the Arroz Negro Sepia y Almejas is opulent, the Paté con Tostaditas is appetizing, the Fresas con nata is divine, and the sangria is potent.

Siesta. Succumb to the local’s languid way of life. After a sumptuous meal and potent sangria, while away in a siesta and cast away your itinerary. For an hour or two.

Parc Guell. The admission fee to Sagrada Familia can include a discounted admission to Casa Museu Gaudi, which houses the noveau furniture designed by Antoni Gaudi. The Casa is located in Parc Guell, another Gaudi creation. Together with his other works, Parc Guell is likewise a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Climb to Parc Guell

The path to Parc Guell may be paved with difficulty though. And that siesta may just be fated. One who visits the park on a whim or on pure chance, or simply uninformed, would more likely take the popular metro. If one gets off at the Vallcarca station, one has to hurdle a very long walk and a nearly ‘180 degree-inclination’ climb, interspersed with sporadic and short escalator breaks. The path is said to be easier when getting off from the public buses or the hop-on hop off tour buses. But what is life without a hard climb once in a while?

The view of Barcelona

Gingerbread-style house at Parc Guell

Mosaic at Parc Guell

Quirky Parc Guell

At the end, the park rewards with vast and beautiful views of Barcelona. And unlike the Gothic and morose appearance of the Sagrada Familia, Parc Guell reveals a fun, quirky, and flippant aspect of Gaudi’s artistry. Gaudi’s design elements, marked by colors, symbols, and geometry, are still predominant in the park, but in a mood so sanguine it will definitely bring cheer to the weary. There are multi-colored mosaic designs and Gingerbread-style houses. Sans the thick crowds, one would think being in a wonderland, immersed in a flight of fancy. But the sounds of ‘Ole!,” feet stomping, and castanets clicking from gypsies dancing a fierce flamenco give the park a classic touch of España and bring you back to reality.

Some might not find any value or excitement in taking a steep detour under the heat of the Barcelona sun. But the experience definitely lays an enriching texture to one’s visit in Barcelona. It creates a more tangible memory, not capable of being captured in a photograph, but more difficult to obliterate by the hands of time.

*Most photos by Cheryl Arnan

Where Giants are Gentle

The whale shark of Oslob, Cebu

It was sparked by curiosity. News circulated that a group of whale sharks have made Oslob its new home, frolicking in the nearby sea and even mingling with the fisher folk and visitors. Owing to the uncertainty of whether the whale sharks were just transient visitors or now permanent residents of the Oslob seas, we immediately hied off to the southern town of Cebu.

Just before the sun rose, we started our travel to Tan-awan, Oslob, the home of the gentle giants. The place, which served as the jump off point, was approximately 125 kilometers. The roads are smooth and after roughly 3 hours of relaxed driving, you will get to a place with a whale shark painting on its gate. This is the jump off point for the whale shark encounter.

The town’s fishermen facilitated the 45-minute tour. It was crude but still at its best. The fisherman’s tale will reveal that they first saw the whale sharks towards the end of the third quarter of 2011. Relatively an unknown species to them, they avoided it until a foreigner informed them of the gentle nature of the whale sharks. There started a silent caring relationship between the fishermen and the whale sharks. The whale sharks, numbering 14 per last count of the fishermen, frequent the place from early in the morning until mid-day.

We were ferried individually in a banca to the site where the whales were. The whales were surprisingly very near; it took us only a minute or two via the banca to reach them. At that time, there were three of them found in the area. The fishermen can expertly maneuver their bancas to bring you closer to the whales. They surface their heads beside the bancas to catch the shrimp fed to them by the fishermen. For those deficient in courage, the encounter is still close enough to give you a good dose of awe, wonder, and thrill of seeing them up close and personal.

What started out as mere curiosity then became a great opportunity to overcome a fear of the wild and the Goliath. I chose to be one of the brave souls who jumped in and swam beside the whales which were literally at arm’s length. As you jump in beside them, you will experience an infusion of anxiety and excitement. But like all fears that you eventually choose to overcome, you culminate with a sense of liberation and fulfillment, and live one of the best times of your life.

The whale sharks swim gently. But being creatures in the wild, you must take caution against an innocent and unexpected swish of its gigantic body or tail. The fishermen likewise advise against touching, holding, or riding on, the whale sharks. This is for your safety and for the whales’ well-being as well. But be assured that your close interaction is already an experience of a lifetime, one you will look back to with a burst of great wonder and unadulterated happiness.

Life indeed holds wonderful surprises. I never thought there would be a day when I could look at a giant in the eye and live to tell the tale. Veni, vidi, vici!

The whale shark of Oslob, Cebu

Montserrat – a journey and a destination | Sun.Star

Montserrat – a journey and a destination | Sun.Star. (A chronicle of my journey to Montserrat, as published in Sun Star Daily)

The mountains of Montserrat

MONTESERRAT, located near Barcelona, Spain, is the site of the Benedictine monks’ abbey and the Shrine of our Lady of Montserrat. It is considered as the main spiritual and religious center of Catalonia and a natural park. Thus, its rich history, religious significance, and natural wonder make it a destination not just for religious pilgrims, but for tourists as well.

While the travel books and websites say that the abbey and the shrine are nestled in the majestic mountains of Montserrat, there are no ample words or pictures to convey the kind of awe and reverence you feel when you see the magnificent Montserrat mountains, the spectacular views and rock formations, and the grandiose basilica. The mountains’ bright hue in the morning alone is a joyous splendor that welcomes and renews every traveler or pilgrim.

A one-hour train ride via the Catalan railway and a cable car (Funicular Aeri de Montserrat) brings you to the foot of the Montserrat Mountains. From there, you need at least one day to explore the Basilica, museum, mountains, trails, and shops.

The sites

The facade of the Basilica of Montserrat

Inside the Basilica of Montserrat

The Basilica holds the major highlights of one’s visit to Montserrat. It houses the miraculous La Morenata or Black Virgin, which is centrally located above the Basilica’s altar. Pilgrims who wish to venerate the Black Virgin line at the right side of the church. It will be a long stretch, but the ornate hallway of the basilica will enchant those in line and definitely shorten the wait.

Another experience not to be missed when visiting Montserrat is listening to the highly acclaimed Escalonia Boys’ Choir during the Salve religious service. They bring the heavens to earth at 1 p.m. daily, but regrettably, not during their holidays.

One can also linger in the basilica’s beautiful courtyard – admire the charm of its walls, flooring and archways; offer prayers by lighting candles; and embrace the tranquil hope emitted by the flicker of the beautiful multi-colored votive candles.

The cafe at Montserrat

Museum, shops, and café. The museum houses the works of Dali, Monet, and Picasso, among others. While the shops provide a wide selection of religious articles, artwork, books, music, and other interesting pieces that will serve as invaluable recuerdo of your journey. The café serves a decent brew and delectable salads, sandwiches, meals.

View of the Montserrat Mountains from the Basilica

The rugged mountains and trails of Montserrat

Mountains and trails. From the foot of the Montserrat Mountains where the monastery, basilica, museum, and shops are located, the Sant Joan funicular ride will take you to a higher elevation of the mountains. The adventurous can explore the mountains while the sedentary can marvel at the amazing rock formations and breathtaking views from the deck.

The Santa Cova (sacred cave), which is the site where the Black Virgin was discovered, is another highlight of Montserrat. The devout may pray along the way, as the trail to Santa Cova is lined with the depictions of the Way of the Cross.

But take caution, the trail is not for those frail in spirit and those weak in the legs and feet, as well. The walk, said to be around 40 minutes or 20 minutes if using the funicular ride, is arduous enough to raise your pulse rate, heart rate, and respiratory rate (personal note: I had to research the time it takes to reach the Santa Cova, because honestly, while the spirit was willing, the legs and feet were screaming otherwise, after more than 40 minutes of panting up and down the mountainous trail, with the Santa Cova still not in sight).

But, while the difficult trail will leave you almost breathless, the spectacular views will definitely take away whatever breath you have left. And for those strong-willed but physically-challenged to reach the sacred cave, the Gothic-style crucifix would be a respectable point to stop, commune with nature and with God, ruminate on the journey that was and that will be, and then gradually, restore the ego and head back to the funicular ride before it closes.

Audiovisual presentation. This should not be missed. The presentation tells the story of Montserrat through beautiful pictures and music, woven together in amazing cinematography. It starts from the Laudes, the first prayers offered upon the rising of the sun and ends with the Vespres, the last prayers whispered upon the setting of the sun. The poignant pictures and music will lift your spirits, warm your heart, and beget your tears.

And it is but fitting that there are no words spoken during the presentation. For indeed, there are no words sufficient to capture and convey the faith, hope, and love of the devout.

Montserrat will hold a special memory perhaps only a fellow pilgrim or traveler will understand. It has to be experienced and felt by the heart, for one to know that it was, and always will be, one of the journeys worth taking in one’s life time.

It defies the banal and perpetual “it is the journey, not the destination,” philosophy. Like most other journeys, you will learn, Montserrat will always be about the journey and the destination. The confusing navigation through the train station, the one-hour train ride, the exhilarating and height-defying cable car ride, the long queues, the intense heat, the arduous walks – all will lead you to a spiritual, spectacular, and beautiful destination – a fulfilling end to a memorable journey.

A happy sign after missing the train from Montserrat

El Rincon Bar near the Montserrat-Aeri train stop

Postscript: Unlike the journey to Montserrat which should not be taken in haste, the trains from Montserrat leave hurriedly and promptly. However, should you be one second late, do not despair. Head to your right and follow the signs, “Bar” and “El Rincon.”

You will find yourself in a humble but spirited place. While waiting for the next train, you can have tapas, paella, cerveza, or sangria with the Montserrat mountains as a beautiful backdrop. Bask in this simple pleasure and take in the beauty of Montserrat at sundown. Its rose-tint in the afternoon is a calm presence that will bid you a nostalgic farewell, for the time being. Until the next journey, salud!

Montserrat mountains at sundown

*Most photos by – Cheryl Arnan